Bear Butte

This weekend has been beautiful. Too beautiful to waste indoors, and so- today, November 1, I cast all else to the wind, and jumped into the car and headed off to climb Bear Butte.

Bear Butte- or Mato Paha in Lakota- is one of my most favorite places on Earth, and one of the reasons that I originally came out here for my first visit.

It has an elevation of 4,422 feet, Northeast of the main entity of the Black Hills, but is considered a sacred site of the Black Hills. It is revered by many Indian Nations. It is not my place to speak of its sacredness, or of the many controversies concerning the land use in its immediate area. All I can say is this: the mountain has a power that is palpable, and one has only to be in its presence to know this.



I have been told that the mountain can take care of itself, and doesn't need to be protected or preserved. I agree... the mountain is more powerful than any feeble effort of humans to use or abuse it. However, anyone who comes into the presence of this beautiful spot, if they have any feeling at all in their hearts, will feel its power, and regard it with the awe and respect that it deserves. Those who are not American Indian should know that there are many brightly colored strips of cloth tied to trees and bushes in numerous spots- both along the path, and at various other spots more remote. These are prayer ties- leave 'em ALONE!


I arrived at 2 PM. As I drove up towards the parking lot, I was greeted by a 4-footed committee. It may as well be said- buffalo are bigger than you are- respect that!

The climb itself isn't too hard- only an hour is usually what it takes to get me to the top. However, the first part is a pretty steep angle- do not underestimate the climb at this elevation if you are new to the area! Besides, during the Spring and Summer you will want to take your time- in order to admire the many beautiful flowers and herbs which abundantly grace the path on the way to the top.






Today with the leaves gone, I was able to see and admire the nest of some sort of bird of prey which has made it's nest in a Buffalo Berry bush- a good 3 1/2 feet in diameter!




Earlier this week we had a considerable amount of snow. In some places the depth was up to a foot, and drifts
even more. My path showed clear evidence of this. It doesn't look like much in the photo, but in some spots it was still 6 inches deep!



Finally I made it to the top!

There is no way to describe how beautiful it is once the summit is reached. For me, once there- the experience is always one of a profound sense of peace, renewed strength and happiness. Be respectful if you encounter others at the top. Many come to pray for strength in battle- whether military, personal or physical. For these folks this mountain is NOT a recreational destination.

It's amazing to me to watch the reaction of those who come here. Often it is exhilaration- as it was with the young teen who almost knocked me over as I rounded a turn around a large boulder. His Dad eyed me red-faced and remarked- "I couldn't keep up!" (I sympathized!)

A young Indigenous family boisterously greeted me halfway down. I gave the Mom the rest of my water, and told her how beautiful it was at the top. She gave me back a beautiful smile. I stood aside almost at the bottom, as a young Indian man sprinted past me on his own personal quest... I mentally wished him strength on his journey, and quietly gave thanks for the strength I had received on my own.

Colorado, "Hi!"

I have been very patient all summer. In fact, for a year I have been patient, and anyone who knows me would say so. I haven't gone out of the state since the Christmas holiday.

This has been practical and necessary. When one is not gainfully employed- the name of the game is conservation of funds, and sincere and energetic beating of the bushes for gainful employment.

Finally, this past August, a year and a week to the day- I achieved my goal. I am now gladly working for National American University. I am designing and redesigning ALL their online courses. This is an enormous project, to which I look forward. But that is another story...

Once I had secured my position, and felt comfortable that it would not evaporate in front of my eyes, I started feeling again. These are the feelings I had put on hold for a year. These are the feelings, and accompanying behaviors that- when I am at my most quintessentially myself, I feel and do. My friends, family and those who know me well, then say to each other- "Yep, there she goes again!"

It was natural that, when Labor Day was looming, I started thinking about how far the tether would reach in a three day weekend. I have much exploring to do in this new part of the world. So, I turned to JhonDuane who is the finest consultant I know for adventure inspiration/creation! I told him that I was open to anything, but it should meet two criterion:
1. It should take me out of Rapid City
2. It should have something to do with art.

Some of the best ideas take time, and, in this case, superlative suggestions were slow to surface, even with JhonDuane's fine mind at work. I was determined on "getting out of Dodge" however.

Finally, Jhon came up with a PLAN. We would go to Colorado, and visit Denver Art Museum, and while we were there, we would also stay in Fort Collins.

It was a long drive, with a welcome, several hour detour in Nebraska. First there was a Labor Day Parade/Farmer's Market, where we both purchased some amazingly delicious raw honey. Then, in Chadron, we stopped for the Labor Day Weekend Annual Rock Swap.

It was fun to see all the "usual suspects". It was great to visit, and hear all the latest rock hunting tales and finds. There are many wonderful raw rocks, cabs, gems, fossils, finished jewelry and everything in between. JhonDuane purchased some wonderful raw Fairburn Agates, while I was content to just visit and look at everything! Finally, at mid-afternoon it was time to move on South.

I was excited! This was the first time I had ever been to Colorado! (well, I spent an hour waiting for the next leg of my flight at Christmas, but that doesn't really count- airports are not really a place- they are sort of a twilight zone, only to be endured). We traveled through several hours of Wyoming, occasionally passing oil rigs. I had to be told what these were- they looked nothing like to old rigs in my Social Studies book of my high school days.

This part of Wyoming was nothing like scenery I had pictured from the book The Virginian. Except for the monument to the cattle trails that we stopped and read, it could really still have been South Dakota. The area was large, flat and dusty. I closed my eyes and imagined an endless herd of cattle lumbering towards us, bawling and snorting, cowboys whistling and shouting to keep them moving forward.

The sun went down, and we continued the drive. Finally, the prairie and stars were competing with distant lights of civilization. As soon as it became clear that we were entering urban driving, I turned the wheel over to Jhon. He got us safely checked in to a motel, and then we were out for the evening in Fort Collins!

First, we stopped to eat at one of Jhon's favorite Mexican restaurants,Très Margaritas and what a treat! Truly fine Mexican food, superb Margaritas, all served under enormous, ancient trees in a secluded patio. I relaxed and savored the gentle night breeze, shimmering aspen leaves, and a million brilliant stars.


Unfortunately, I couldn't find a photo of the lovely terrace where we dined, and so I settled for a photo of a dish of their food- YUM!






A full moon begged for a stroll. We, and many of the students populated the beautiful brick walkways and "people streets" adjacent to Colorado State University. We walked for ages- each new turn displayed yet another interesting alley, with interesting store fronts. Finally, after a modest ice cream we mutually decided it was "a night"!

The next morning, after breakfast, we attempted the farmer's market- one of our pre-determined destinations.
Upon learning that it didn't open until 11 AM (yikes! for any self-respecting farmer, that would be after lunch!), we headed South to Denver, to the Denver Art Museum.




As it was Sunday, we waited in an adjacent coffee place for opening, and strolled the beautiful outdoor sculpture at the front of this amazing building.

When we visited, the DAM was remodeling, and preparing for Fall exhibits. Some sections were closed, but there was much for this viewer to savor.

The building itself is exceedingly well designed. There are beautifully framed views from every window. I took advantage of as many as I could!


















Even the lights are works of art!













After all the hard work of art appreciation, we felt that sustenance was in order... JhonDuane knew just the place!

Ahhhh~ Rx in the nick of time!
... The ambiance was pretty 'laxin', too!

A Journey to the Center of All That Is

On Sunday Jhon and I decided to go climb Epahaska (Harney Peak). Since Jhon had other responsibilities earlier in the day, we agreed to meet at Sylvan Lake.

I arrived first. It was beautiful and sunny, so I took a few photos of Sylvan Lake.

There were many people here, grilling food, canoing, fishing, swimming and walking around the short path that girdles the lake. It was so beautiful and warm, I found an empty picnic table and dozed in the sun.

As I gazed at the sky, an Osprey lazily circled the water in search of a fishy feast. The colors are just turning here. Persistent breezes stirred all around into dazzling shimmery foliage.

A few clouds appeared in the sky- here and there people started to break camp. But when Jhon arrived at 3:30, we started up the path.

This is one of my favorite hikes in the Black Hills. At every season there's something new to see, and I was excited to go.

A short way down the path the sky clouded over and it began to rain. I wasn't too worried as it was a light rain, although it was cooling down.

Later, the sun came out and a brilliant rainbow spanned the massive mountain. I thought it a good sign- perhaps the skies would clear to a brilliant sunset.

Instead, the skies opened up in a more serious manner. Jhon and I quietly donned what meager supply of protective wear we'd brought, and continued up the path.

The rain was steady and cool. I wished now that I had brought the wool sweater I had briefly considered, then rejected. After all- it was in the high 70's then!

The Bee Balm (Monarda, Bergamot, aka. Horse mint) liked the damp weather anyway!

Soon the air turned much colder- this was no summer shower, but a serious front moving over the Black Hills. Still, Jhon kept moving forward- and I was glad to follow!

Finally we reached the top! The last few hundred steps were the most punishing of all... until we turned the corner and saw the tower- and knew we'd made it!

The weather at the top was very serious. These pictures don't in any way do justice to the powerful forces we experienced.

We were really soaked, the air was turning seriously cold, the wind was gale-force, and I was sobered at its ferocity! With wind-chill to be considered, we agreed not to linger. We paused for a few moments of thanks, then began the return trip.

The way down was long and arduous. On top of very tired muscles, the dark descended prematurely as clouds thickened. The path was slippery and cruelly demanding to already exhausted limbs. While Jhon was stoic as always, I must say that I was not! My bones HURT!
Though I knew the way pretty well in daylight, in darkness all looked unfamiliar and disorienting.

I'm not ashamed to say I whispered a few prayers along the way. Luckily, we reached the sign at the beginning of the trail before the light finally died for good. Still, what should have been a three minute walk back to the car was far longer. I was grateful for the beautiful white quartz and mica that graced the path, reflecting what there was of night-skylight.

It was wonderful to see the parking lot lights, and there- my old car patiently waiting, with its very efficient heater! An hour later- it was hot baths and Margaritas.

What was left of the evening was given to quiet conversation, and I- in reflection of the wonder of Nature, the powerful forces that live on that mountain, the fragile nature of humans, & sincere thanks for a good end to a very rewarding & enlightening day!

My First Relative Visit!!!

In a country (Lakota Country, which is a Sovereign Nation in the US, just as Monaco is, in France) in which Relationship is everything, it was a Moment of Great Note, when MY first relation came to visit me this August- a truly an "august occasion"! My Aunt Marianne, had been talking to me since last year about the possibility of coming to the Black Hills for a visit. this past August it happened!

And so– my very FIRST relative came to visit me here, in my new home in the Black Hills of South Dakota...
Welcome to: Marianne– The Movie! ;^)


There is so much more to post... For instance- the wild and wonderful day Marianne and Arlene had with Gerri as Tour Guide to Pine Ridge! From all accounts it was a Wonderful Womans' Tour of Great Success! I, unfortunately was unable to attend, as I had just landed a wonderful new job with National American University as there Graphic Designer in their Curriculum Department. Oh Drat the Timing! lol!

That having been said, Marianne, Arlene and I had a wonderful visit– both at Minerva's for their first night's visit, and our visit to Mount Rushmore. It was wonderful to have my Aunt visit me. Though I love it here, it is a looong way from home, and it was wonderful to have a family member come and visit. I am hoping it is just the start of things to come!

In No Particular Order

Well... a lot has been happening... like- I have a new job, and therefore, not as much time to post. Although, I do have enough time to do stuff. Soo- I am catching up as best I can!

I have been cleaning and conditioning Jhon's western tack, which gives me a great deal of satisfaction as it is so amazingly beautiful! I wish I had taken photos of his gorgeous bridle as well- largely his own work- that is, engraving and leather work. I will try and add more photos later.

For now:
Left is a photo of Roan, Jhon's ropin' partner of many years, and worthy recipient of the trophy–
Heeler Award 1986
Nelson Arena: Memorial Day.
This horse was a HORSE! (He was a pretty young fella here.)

Here are some close ups of the breastplate I cleaned, which you can just make out here:
Look at that gorgeous leather-tooling! What a treasure!

How I Spent My 4th of July Weekend: part III

After dinner we drove to town and parked. Lizelda parted ways with us then, as her ride was elsewhere.

The fireworks were to start at dusk, so we found a good parking place in which to sit (which would also give us a decent getaway afterwards!) and settled in our new chairs (thank you Nancy for making me go!) to wait for the spectacle ...
and we waited...
...and we waited
...and we WAITED!

it got cold!!! lol!


Finally, at 10 PM they started!















































...and––


It was a great day, a fun night, and we even got out of the parking lot in 5 minutes!!! Yay!

How I Spent My 4th of July Weekend: Part II

On Saturday, July 4th, after our earlier cavorting in the waves above the ground, we made plans to travel beneath the surface of it!

Our destination (Nancy, 'Lizbeth, Lizelda and me) was Wind Cave. We traveled through Custer State Park (please people!!! find another name for this beautiful place!) It was a stormy day, (had quite a rainstorm to drive through on our way to the cave) but we were in high spirits nevertheless. The inhabitants of this place were in high spirits, too, as you can see from the photo.

A sacred site to the Lakota, their ancestors emerged from this place in ancient days, following their relative Tatanka through the door and to the surface on what is now their ancestral lands.



The cave itself is pleasantly cool. It was the first time for me to be in a cave, and I wondered how I would feel. I was fine, but the oddest feeling of incredible weight bearing down on my head! Though I took many photos, it was too dark to get good pics with my cell phone. Here is the best of the bunch.

Hundreds of miles of cave are contained within a 1 mile square, with approximately 5 new miles discovered by volunteers every year.

We were underground for about 1.25 hours, and at the deepest point we were 22 feet underground.
Upon leaving the cave we came upon a huge herd of buffalo, who kindly posed for a spontaneous photo opp! We traveled back north to my place for grilled buffalo burghers (did I just say- buffalo? sorry guys!) and chips.

How I Spent My 4th of July Weekend

Since it's been about half a year since I have posted anything here, I figured it was about time!

My 4th weekend started a bit early, when my friend Nancy and her daughter 'Lizbeth (who is 12) persuaded me away from website design work for a day, to go to Angostura Dam for some sun and swimming.

Angostura Dam is a lovely hour's drive south to the southern-most tip of the Black Hills. It is a popular destination for all in the general area for swimming, boating and fishing. The water is a beautiful emerald green from a distance. The color is caused by the minerals from the Hot Springs that bubble up from the small sleepy town of– you guessed it– Hot Springs.

We decided to drive the scenic route through the Black Hills, which took us through Custer State Park as well as Wind Cave National Park. We saw lots of wildlife- antelope playing (well, what did you expect!), lots of buffalo- many chestnut-colored babies deer and prairie dogs.

When we got to Hot Springs we made a side tour to the stream that flows through the town so that Nancy could show 'Lizbeth where she used to play when visiting her Aunt Sandy as a little girl. The spring-heated stream is about the temperature of tepid bath water, the stream bottom soft sand. After paddling around for a few minutes we traveled on to Angostura.

The weather was in the mid-80's, and the lake water just right! After I had paddled around for a few minutes I noticed that my body was extra buoyant, which I attribute to the mineral content of the lake. The water has a slightly milky character which reminds me of bathwater with mineral salts added.

For someone who grew up by the ocean, it is a slightly odd sensation to be swimming with such a lovely hills surrounding the lake. They remind me of the Scottish Highlands, and so that makes me feel right at home!

I was surprised to see sea gulls here, but I guess they have now made their way to all parts of the US, whether sea side or inland. These were not quite the same looking as the herring gulls I was used to in New England. These are a bit smaller and have a different cry as well.

They are just as hungry as the NE gulls, though, as 'Lizabeth found out when she decided to see if they liked crackers! (The feet are Nancy's)