It has been a cold and snowy winter. It has been the most snow over the longest period of time since I arrived here in 2006. Not once have we had a day warm and snow-free enough to even go rock hunting. I have to admit that I've had wicked bad "cabin fever." I don't even have my snowshoes or cross country skis with me to enjoy the snow.
So when the weather broke this past Saturday, I was ready to go anywhere and do anything. JhonDuane must have felt that way too, because when he Skyped me, it didn't take much to persuade him to take the day and have some fun. So, after stocking up on picnic items I headed south to Pine Ridge.
We proceeded over the burm that sluiced the excess water, and climbed up the dam.
Beautiful and calm, pristine and utterly quiet, in stopping to listen I couldn't shake the feeling that there was much more present than the eye could see. Below the silence, there was a disquiet that was impossible to dispel.
Suddenly, a sunny, light-hearted day seemed much darker.
It was, after all, into this place that, with the disappearance of the buffalo, Crazy Horse (Tȟašúŋke Witkó) had brought his hungry people in 1877.
After this pleasant break, the sun was getting low in the sky. The air was noticeably chilling. Reluctantly, we packed up and headed back north, towards the pass back to Pine Ridge.
How Can I Keep from Singing, Enya Shepherd's Moon
..."In prison cell and dungeon vile
Our thoughts to them are winging,
When friends by shame are undefiled
How can I keep from singing?"
Looking around me, I thought about what I had seen today...what those scrapes in the ground represented. The place had been prepared as a "holding pen" for people who were deemed dangerous to the American notion of Manifest Destiny. The German Führer Hitler would take this unconscionable American "solution" of "removing" unwanted people, to deadly and heinous culmination several generations later- with horrific results.
A whole way of life- one beautiful, full of purpose and with virtually no "footprint" to mar the land- nearly wiped out by the hubris of a European- based society, too shallow and ego-centric to see merit in cultures other than their own. Only the Lakota resilience to shoulder adversity and continue to go forward has helped them to survive and express their rich culture into the 21st century. The regeneration of the Land gave me hope that the People of this land will somehow do the same.
...and so the evening descended. We made our way back to the small house in the beautiful little valley. In the cozy warm kitchen, we devoured the most delicious spicy bean soup! A fitting meal to complete a wonder-filled day.
After a wonderful evening, it was time to call it a day. Thanks conveyed and a happy goodnight said, my little war pony carried me safely back North, through a night filled with a million, million stars, glistening in the universe, lighting my way.
So when the weather broke this past Saturday, I was ready to go anywhere and do anything. JhonDuane must have felt that way too, because when he Skyped me, it didn't take much to persuade him to take the day and have some fun. So, after stocking up on picnic items I headed south to Pine Ridge.
The road down was still pretty snowy from the week's storms. But by the time I arrived in Pine Ridge, the day had really warmed up. Jhon suggested that we head to Nebraska to visit the old Spotted Tail Agency...that sounded good to me! So after I visited with his Mom, we jumped in my car and started. The day was lovely and so was the scenery along the way. After a 45 minute ride, we pulled over to the side of the road, where a simple sign announced the place.
There was no sound but that of the breeze rattling the grasses and the trees. The late February sun was warm enough for just light jackets.
Armed only with cameras we moved quickly away from the road. The snow was soft as butter as we made our way deeper into the site.
Within a few steps we saw large areas where the earth had been greatly disturbed a long time ago.
There had been a large scrape in the earth- to accommodate a reservoir of water- mute testimony to the large population it had been designed to serve...
We proceeded over the burm that sluiced the excess water, and climbed up the dam.
Beautiful and calm, pristine and utterly quiet, in stopping to listen I couldn't shake the feeling that there was much more present than the eye could see. Below the silence, there was a disquiet that was impossible to dispel.
Suddenly, a sunny, light-hearted day seemed much darker.
It was, after all, into this place that, with the disappearance of the buffalo, Crazy Horse (Tȟašúŋke Witkó) had brought his hungry people in 1877.
Later, I asked JhonDuane why was the land so open in the above photo? He simply answered me- is it surprising, when so many people were living permanently in such density?
The US, in its infinite wisdom, relocated large numbers of people on such a very fragile landscape, with devastating impact- to land and people alike.
The Lakota were a nomadic people, and watched carefully their surroundings, and would move on when the area showed signs of stress.
They lived in balance and respect for their surroundings. The reason for this is very simple, and really a "no-brainer"... if you want the resources to be available next year when you come, don't trash them this year!
They lived in balance and respect for their surroundings. The reason for this is very simple, and really a "no-brainer"... if you want the resources to be available next year when you come, don't trash them this year!
Jhon remarked that it was good to see the trees and plants have grown back.
I thought to myself- Nature, at least- has recovered.
We made our way back to the car, and continued South. On the way we stopped to photograph the local population, who in turn- wondered what those crazy tourists were staring at!
We stopped for a picnic lunch at a sunny little park in Hay Scales. The burritos, chips, guacamole and green tea just hit the spot as we tailgated and pondered Lakota history.
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| (Click to read the sign) |
After this pleasant break, the sun was getting low in the sky. The air was noticeably chilling. Reluctantly, we packed up and headed back north, towards the pass back to Pine Ridge.
The day had a few serendipitous surprises left, however. Magic hour was upon us as we approached the pass. The land turned into an Impressionistic visual feast... and we- the lucky recipients...'Beauty was all around us.
..."In prison cell and dungeon vile
Our thoughts to them are winging,
When friends by shame are undefiled
How can I keep from singing?"
Looking around me, I thought about what I had seen today...what those scrapes in the ground represented. The place had been prepared as a "holding pen" for people who were deemed dangerous to the American notion of Manifest Destiny. The German Führer Hitler would take this unconscionable American "solution" of "removing" unwanted people, to deadly and heinous culmination several generations later- with horrific results.
A whole way of life- one beautiful, full of purpose and with virtually no "footprint" to mar the land- nearly wiped out by the hubris of a European- based society, too shallow and ego-centric to see merit in cultures other than their own. Only the Lakota resilience to shoulder adversity and continue to go forward has helped them to survive and express their rich culture into the 21st century. The regeneration of the Land gave me hope that the People of this land will somehow do the same.
...and so the evening descended. We made our way back to the small house in the beautiful little valley. In the cozy warm kitchen, we devoured the most delicious spicy bean soup! A fitting meal to complete a wonder-filled day.
After a wonderful evening, it was time to call it a day. Thanks conveyed and a happy goodnight said, my little war pony carried me safely back North, through a night filled with a million, million stars, glistening in the universe, lighting my way.
