Saturday, May 22, 2010

Minneluzhan





















I have been blogging about many beautiful places that I have been since I moved to South Dakota. However,one of the most beautiful places is within walking distance of the house where I live. The Canyon Lake area, and its sinewy path along the banks of the Minneluzhan (Rapid Creek) is as lovely an area as anyone could find in a city setting.

It is a favorite destination for all ages-two-footed or four. The lake itself, is actually a dammed up portion of Rapid Creek.

Here, people come to sunbathe, walk, rollerskate, bike, have picnics complete with shelter and grill, fly kites, and even get married (in the little pavilion in the middle of the lake!)

There is also wonderful fishing. Cleghorn Springs, was selected for the excellent water source. A spring provides six million gallons of water daily at a year-round temperature of 52 degrees.

Rainbow trout and Chinook salmon are the major species raised. Over two hundred fifty thousand fish, totaling 70,000 pounds, are produced annually.
The fish population is very healthy. As I watched there was much splashing as fish chased each other away from the best spots in the stream. Though they were clearly visible from the bank, every time I tried to get close they swam away!
However, this fellow- a muskrat- seemed to truly enjoy showing off for the camera!
The walk is lovely, and continues in both directions along the creek from one end of Rapid City to the other- a delight for bikes, joggers walkers, skaters.


Along the banks are all sorts of wildflowers and blooming shrubs and trees.
The water was flowing deep and swiftly, reminding me of the terrible Flood of 1972.

In June of that year, Nearly 15 inches of rain fell in about 6 hours near Nemo, and more than 10 inches of rain fell over an area of 60 square miles (Schwartz and others, 1975). According to the Red Cross, the resulting floods left 238 people dead and 3,057 people injured.
It is hard believe that such a lovely spot could have been the site of such devastation and death.


Finally after about 10 minutes of walking we come upon my favorite little picnic area on the Minneluzhan.

Though it's beside the road, because it's on a curve, many people are not aware that it is right there!

It is a favorite spot for ducks, the occasional mountain sheep, and geese parents find it a perfect spot to raise children!





















It takes only half an hour to walk there, and of course, another bit of time to rest and enjoy the great beauty of the spot.

All sorts of wildflowers grow along the banks, and at this time of year this assures the viewer of never having the same walk twice!

Here are some Western Wallflowers, looking not at all "wallflower-ish"!

















































Sunday, May 16, 2010

Return to Fairburn

I had a plan of action for my Mom's birthday. I was making her a Fairburn lamp for her bedroom, using an old Tequila bottle. Not just any old bottle, though, but that of a high-end Tequila label, the packaging of which had won an award for excellence in design:

2006 Clear Choice Winners
December 14, 2006
Glass Packaging Institute (GPI) named the winners of its 2006 Clear Choice Awards, the only awards program that recognizes consumer product goods companies that package their products in Glass. "Glass says 'purity,' 'premium,' and 'sustainability,' like no other packaging material," says GPI president Joseph Catteneo. The judging panel includes representatives from the packaging academia, design, and trade media. In the past years, entries were judged on aesthetics, creativity, marketability, and form and functionality. All 2006 Clear Choice Award winners received an engraved Steuben Glass award.


Overall Package Design



Winning Product: Corzo Tequila

Manufacturer:
Bacardi Bottling Corp.

Glass Container Supplier:
Saint-Gobain DesjonquƩres

Judges Comments:
The Corzo bottle design blends art and science, with a tequila bottle design like no other.


This may seem an odd gift to give to one's proper New Englander Mother. lol! However, I had described my gift to JhonDuane-a very similar one (his is an oil lamp) and she was sold on the conception, and wanted one too!

In order to construct the piece required many tiny sandblasted clear quartz stones of varying hue. The Fairburn agates would go on top. The point of this exercise was to replicate the way that many Fairburns are found- namely surrounded by their cousins, the quartzes!

Unfortunately, JhonDuane had pneumonia, and was temporarily "benched"! So, after some consultation with him, I headed solo to Fairburn, South Dakota. This holds a special place in my heart, as this is where Jhon took me when I came to visit in 2006, to attend the Rock Swap... never imagining that this beautiful place would soon become my home.

Here I am looking a little wilted due to battling a stomach bug the night before! Ughhh!

Behind me are the trees lining French Creek. This place is infamous for the discovery of gold in the Black Hills, by a member of Custer's 7th Cavalry named Horatio N. Ross. (Yep,- a
ROSS- damn him!)

There Goes the Neighborhood

Two Lakotas stood on a hillside and watched as Custer and the Seventh Cavalry set up tents below. One sighed sadly. The other looked at his friend in surprise and said, "Why so glum my friend?" His friend looked at him sadly and replied "Damned immigrants! There goes the neighborhood!"
"Two years earlier Secretary of the Interior Columbus Delano had set the stage for George Armstrong Custer's 1874 expedition to the fabled Black Hills in Dakota Territory.

In a letter written March 28, l872, Secretary Delano, responsible for the integrity of Sioux territorial rights, said:
I am inclined to think that the occupation of this region of the country is not necessary to the happiness and prosperity of the Indians, and as it is supposed to be rich in minerals and lumber it is deemed important to have it freed as early as possible from Indian occupancy.
I shall, therefore, not oppose any policy which looks first to a careful examination of the subject... If such an examination leads to the conclusion that country is not necessary or useful to Indians, I should then deem it advisable...to extinguish the claim of the Indians and open the territory to the occupation of the whites.
Delano's remarks were in direct contradiction of terms defined in the l868 Laramie Treaty: "...no persons except those designated herein ... shall ever be permitted to pass over, settle upon, or reside in the territory described in this article."
from Deadwood Magazine July/August 1996

I took a simple left (East) off of Rt 79, and started down the lovely gravel road.










Fairburn agates were created in the Black Hills, and rolled over incredible eons of time, out into the prairies and Badlands. This photo shows just how far the hills are from this location... (yep, that tiny bit on the horizon are the Black Hills!)





The town is pretty quiet now, but silent skeletons attest to a livelier previous history.






Driving a little further, I got a brief clip of the skittish antelope that inhabit the prairie grasslands here.


After passing through town I glimpsed an incredible view of a large herd of buffalo, grazing at the edge of the Triple Seven Ranch.




These magnificent animals have supplied me with incredibly soft buffalo down fiber, which- in the near future, I hope to spin, and eventually create a truly unique and luxurious item (to be determined!)
To give you an idea of the size of this herd, just watch this video!


Finally I got to the entrance of the agate beds.

Once past the camp grounds, one must pass across French Creek, which can be a tricky proposition during rainy season. Fortunately, my little RAV4 was up to the challenge! Mud, water, deep ruts steep angles- not a prob!

After a short traverse of uphill, and through a stock fence, I was within the kern beds.

I remember feeling overwhelmed with the wide open spaces, and incredible beauty-so different from what I had ever seen in New England.

Here I am looking much more self-assured than I actually was (hat courtesy, JhonDuane!) lol!

If you think that it's like looking for a needle in a haystack, you are SO RIGHT!

Quartzes of every possible size, shape and color! I was, however, looking for the small round sand-blasted kind, that looked so like the beach glass I used to collect at Plum Island.

Finally, after several hours of blissful peace, I had all I could ever need, and so it was time to retrace my steps.

(Yes, that IS the road!)

On my way I silently passed by- one last time- the woman in the too big hat. I tipped a nod of acknowledgment in her direction.

Should I have told her what the path had in store? Maybe. But I saw the look in her eyes. No where to go but straight ahead, full-speed and damn the torpedoes...

anyway, the treasure is in the journey- not the destination... and I knew she could do it- she was made of strong stuff- and I...

had a lamp to make!

Friday, April 2, 2010

Spring in Hot Springs

The other day I saw my first Robin. Then I saw my first Red-winged Blackbird. Then, on Sunday, I woke up and it was WARM! I just jumped into my clothes and jumped into my car and started driving...first to Dunn Brothers for some delicious coffee, then on down the road- wherever the car decided to turn was where I was going.

The air was so warm that- for the first time, I had the windows down. I was headed South on 79, and just South of Hermosa, I tuned West onto the road that goes to Custer State Park. Just after entering the park my phone rang- it was JhonDuane, my favorite partner in adventures! He wanted to know where I was, and when he heard I was driving through the Black Hills, he said that he'd meet me in Hot Springs after church... and so there was- A Plan.

I never tire of driving through the hills. Custer State Park is glorious at all times of the year, but in the Spring it is especially wonderful. The above red stone formation is a favorite of mine. It is just beside the road, and so I have photographed it from all views, at all times of the day. It almost feels alive it is so sinuous in form!

Before long I was passing the The State Game Lodge. It served as the "Summer White House" for President Calvin Coolidge in 1927 and was visited by President Dwight D. Eisenhower for several days in 1953.

It was built in 1920, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. when the rich wanted quaint "cottages" that had all the amenities of home. For a virtual tour, click here:

This is "bigger than life" country. The land is big, the people are big (JhonDuane is well-over six feet) experiences take you by the scruff of the neck, and you either "walk the talk" or are part of the evolutionary process. lol!


Soon, beauty was all around me! It is hard to drive and rubberneck 360 degrees, so as not to miss all the amazing scenery. Luckily, there are many turn offs so that one can stretch legs and take pictures without risk to life and limb!

Strangely enough, I saw very little wildlife until at the southernmost end of the park, and nearly about to leave.

Here I saw a small group of buffalo grazing and licking the ground for minerals. This is a favorite convening place for all kinds of wildlife. It is especially popular during calving, as the females have extra need at that time, but it's possible to see anything at all times of the year.

It was nice to see that this group had come through the winter in pretty good fashion. I have heard that the mountain sheep have been decimated this year due to widespread pneumonia- something to which all sheep are susceptible.

Just outside the southern gate, is the opening that is the beginning of Buffalo Gap. This is a gorgeous stretch that- Lakota people say the buffalo traveled when they first emerged from Wind Cave.

Once in Hot Springs, I decided to purchase a small snack, and wait for JhonDuane by a little chapel I know at the East end of town.






As you can see it's pretty tiny. But the interior is even more beautiful than
the photo can express.

















The stained glass looks as though it may have been created locally- perhaps by parishioners?? All images are lovely and sweetly rendered.





Wandering around outside, I saw my first flowers of the Spring! These are tiny little things, about the same size as the circumference of a grain of rice. They were blooming there little hearts out, and so I just had to do them the justice of a photo!



After this pleasant past time it was definitely getting warm. So I decided to go back into town and wait for JhonDuane by the lovely river that flows through its center.

The water is tepid at all times of the year, due to the hot springs for which the town was named, and so it never freezes.

I had a short nap in the sun until JhonDuane arrived.



Since the day was so lovely, we decided to stroll the walkway that graces the length of the river through town. JhonDuane took many more photos during this jaunt... I was still sleepy, and content to just follow his lead!

Hot Springs is a charming old town. Originally called Minnekahta (warm waters) by the Lakota, its waters were prized by all. As the rightful dwellers were pushed out of their ancestral lands, Europeans took it over. The town construction started in the late 1800's.

Its buildings are constructed of cut sandstone and brick- outer siding casually allowing less than perpendicular streets define their outer borders.

Above is an example of one of the many little alleyways to surprise and lure the unsuspecting stroller.


Upon returning to the shade where we had left the cars, JhonDuane suggested a drive down Fall River Road to Sheps Canyon. The vistas are nothing short of spectacular. I have only this one shot, as I was falling out out of the car window in total amazement at the sheer beauty of the place.

Remote though it seemed to us in the early Spring, we discovered that it is a major route to boat launches along Angostura Reservoir. In the summer, no doubt, the road would be plenty travelled and dusty!


After such a busy afternoon, our appetites were well-whetted, and we repaired to my newest favorite place to eat- The All-Star Grill. Over a glass of wine and Fat Tire Ale, we munched delicious salmon and wall-eye and reviewed the day.

Once we were happily full, we said goodbye to Hot Springs, and turned our car homeward- the glow of another full moon lighting the way.

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Cascade Springs, Cascade Falls-A Hot Springs Visit on a Cold Winter's Day

In the order of the rhythm of Nature, Winter is a season for solitude, reflection on the past, contemplation on the future, and a time for staying home by the fire.

This month I have done more than my fair share of all of this- especially the quiet reflection- on fire- and how quickly and completely it can destroy the past.

The house in which I raised my two children, where I raised my 4-footed children as well, was destroyed by fire this month. I don't think I will ever get out of my mind the horror of that image- in living color- (thank you (?) YouTube), nor the smell of smoke from my nose- even though I was over 2,000 miles away. Thankfully no people were hurt, although, sadly- 4-footed lives were lost.

Lost as well was the tangible evidence of centuries of saving... ancestral souvenirs, that, yes- Rosses, Boydens, Poblenz', Thompkins, Crosses, Mackenzies, DeCarterets, and all those relatives, as far back as memory can go- proved that they once lived, loved and passed on to the future the very best they could give to their children.

So now my children will go forward, as David Ross and Catherine Ross, and even Old Irad- the "Horse Thief" did, when they started their lives in the New World-with what they could make with their own two hands, the clothes they had on their backs. Maybe a cleansing every 7 generations is a good thing. (I'll let you know when I feel "cleansed".)

Since this event, I have undergone a sort of mourning period. It was time to reflect on all that I had left behind for my children- and was now lost. The weather seemed determined to enforce this process. It stormed considerably, making it impossible for my usual coping strategy of heading to the hills- to heal in the surroundings of the natural world.

However, the sun eventually does return, and with it a warm and Spring-like day. This weekend provided one such day, and like a little kid I grabbed it! I met up with Jhon in Hot Springs- on the Southern-most edge of the Black Hills, and we headed to a most beloved spot- the Cascade Springs.



This is a very special wakan spot- resplendent at all times of the year with the best of Nature's blessings.

This Fall we gathered an enormous amount of grapes- enough to supply many people with deliciously pungent jelly. There were still grapes aplenty after our day of gathering to feed the many wild turkeys that watched us suspiciously from a judicious distance.


These waters bubble to the surface at all times of the year, warmed by volcanic action far beneath the surface. Even in the Winter the water has no ice and is tepid to the touch. It was tempting to think of a dip, but--no! ;^)

However many small fishes who occupy the spring were more than glad to continue their enjoyment of it!

Because of this lovely warmth, the springs and waters which surge forth from it are edged in emerald at all times of year.

As a result, all manner of life are drawn to it for drink, food and healing of the spirit. It was for this purpose that I came to the spring.

The waters which splash down and away from the spring have already been on a long, long journey. They have traveled far underground- through the Black Hills. In doing so, and over the eons of time- they have carved out from the bowels of the earth- places such as Wind Cave, Jewel Cave and many other caves as well.









After their emergence, the waters rush on westward and create the radiant Cascade Falls- a favorite swimming spot during the hot South Dakota sultry summer days.

It was to this spot we traveled next...


These falls happen in a spot much more open and prairie-like, although they are only a few miles West of the Springs. Here the river has cut a deep gouge into the earth, making a micro-climate of abundant vegetation along its edges. This attracts much wildlife. We startled several indignant ducks into the air upon our arrival. After the considerable snow and rain this winter, the run-off has made the river a force to be respected as it rushes past us and slides down the rocky steps.










Truly a lovely spot in which to pause, reflect, refresh and heal the spirit...









good for some photos as well!




















After our busy afternoon we were hungry, so we capped the day with a meal at the All Star Grill in Hot Springs. There they offer delicious home-style meals- like chicken-fried steak, served by friendly people who make you feel like special guests!

Lingering long over the meal looking at photos, finally it was time to head on home. What better way than a big ol' Prairie moon lighting the way home... whispering possibilities of a happier tomorrow!

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Bear Butte

This weekend has been beautiful. Too beautiful to waste indoors, and so- today, November 1, I cast all else to the wind, and jumped into the car and headed off to climb Bear Butte.

Bear Butte- or Mato Paha in Lakota- is one of my most favorite places on Earth, and one of the reasons that I originally came out here for my first visit.

It has an elevation of 4,422 feet, Northeast of the main entity of the Black Hills, but is considered a sacred site of the Black Hills. It is revered by many Indian Nations. It is not my place to speak of its sacredness, or of the many controversies concerning the land use in its immediate area. All I can say is this: the mountain has a power that is palpable, and one has only to be in its presence to know this.



I have been told that the mountain can take care of itself, and doesn't need to be protected or preserved. I agree... the mountain is more powerful than any feeble effort of humans to use or abuse it. However, anyone who comes into the presence of this beautiful spot, if they have any feeling at all in their hearts, will feel its power, and regard it with the awe and respect that it deserves. Those who are not American Indian should know that there are many brightly colored strips of cloth tied to trees and bushes in numerous spots- both along the path, and at various other spots more remote. These are prayer ties- leave 'em ALONE!


I arrived at 2 PM. As I drove up towards the parking lot, I was greeted by a 4-footed committee. It may as well be said- buffalo are bigger than you are- respect that!

The climb itself isn't too hard- only an hour is usually what it takes to get me to the top. However, the first part is a pretty steep angle- do not underestimate the climb at this elevation if you are new to the area! Besides, during the Spring and Summer you will want to take your time- in order to admire the many beautiful flowers and herbs which abundantly grace the path on the way to the top.






Today with the leaves gone, I was able to see and admire the nest of some sort of bird of prey which has made it's nest in a Buffalo Berry bush- a good 3 1/2 feet in diameter!




Earlier this week we had a considerable amount of snow. In some places the depth was up to a foot, and drifts
even more. My path showed clear evidence of this. It doesn't look like much in the photo, but in some spots it was still 6 inches deep!



Finally I made it to the top!

There is no way to describe how beautiful it is once the summit is reached. For me, once there- the experience is always one of a profound sense of peace, renewed strength and happiness. Be respectful if you encounter others at the top. Many come to pray for strength in battle- whether military, personal or physical. For these folks this mountain is NOT a recreational destination.

It's amazing to me to watch the reaction of those who come here. Often it is exhilaration- as it was with the young teen who almost knocked me over as I rounded a turn around a large boulder. His Dad eyed me red-faced and remarked- "I couldn't keep up!" (I sympathized!)

A young Indigenous family boisterously greeted me halfway down. I gave the Mom the rest of my water, and told her how beautiful it was at the top. She gave me back a beautiful smile. I stood aside almost at the bottom, as a young Indian man sprinted past me on his own personal quest... I mentally wished him strength on his journey, and quietly gave thanks for the strength I had received on my own.