Friday, April 2, 2010

Spring in Hot Springs

The other day I saw my first Robin. Then I saw my first Red-winged Blackbird. Then, on Sunday, I woke up and it was WARM! I just jumped into my clothes and jumped into my car and started driving...first to Dunn Brothers for some delicious coffee, then on down the road- wherever the car decided to turn was where I was going.

The air was so warm that- for the first time, I had the windows down. I was headed South on 79, and just South of Hermosa, I tuned West onto the road that goes to Custer State Park. Just after entering the park my phone rang- it was JhonDuane, my favorite partner in adventures! He wanted to know where I was, and when he heard I was driving through the Black Hills, he said that he'd meet me in Hot Springs after church... and so there was- A Plan.

I never tire of driving through the hills. Custer State Park is glorious at all times of the year, but in the Spring it is especially wonderful. The above red stone formation is a favorite of mine. It is just beside the road, and so I have photographed it from all views, at all times of the day. It almost feels alive it is so sinuous in form!

Before long I was passing the The State Game Lodge. It served as the "Summer White House" for President Calvin Coolidge in 1927 and was visited by President Dwight D. Eisenhower for several days in 1953.

It was built in 1920, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. when the rich wanted quaint "cottages" that had all the amenities of home. For a virtual tour, click here:

This is "bigger than life" country. The land is big, the people are big (JhonDuane is well-over six feet) experiences take you by the scruff of the neck, and you either "walk the talk" or are part of the evolutionary process. lol!


Soon, beauty was all around me! It is hard to drive and rubberneck 360 degrees, so as not to miss all the amazing scenery. Luckily, there are many turn offs so that one can stretch legs and take pictures without risk to life and limb!

Strangely enough, I saw very little wildlife until at the southernmost end of the park, and nearly about to leave.

Here I saw a small group of buffalo grazing and licking the ground for minerals. This is a favorite convening place for all kinds of wildlife. It is especially popular during calving, as the females have extra need at that time, but it's possible to see anything at all times of the year.

It was nice to see that this group had come through the winter in pretty good fashion. I have heard that the mountain sheep have been decimated this year due to widespread pneumonia- something to which all sheep are susceptible.

Just outside the southern gate, is the opening that is the beginning of Buffalo Gap. This is a gorgeous stretch that- Lakota people say the buffalo traveled when they first emerged from Wind Cave.

Once in Hot Springs, I decided to purchase a small snack, and wait for JhonDuane by a little chapel I know at the East end of town.






As you can see it's pretty tiny. But the interior is even more beautiful than
the photo can express.

















The stained glass looks as though it may have been created locally- perhaps by parishioners?? All images are lovely and sweetly rendered.





Wandering around outside, I saw my first flowers of the Spring! These are tiny little things, about the same size as the circumference of a grain of rice. They were blooming there little hearts out, and so I just had to do them the justice of a photo!



After this pleasant past time it was definitely getting warm. So I decided to go back into town and wait for JhonDuane by the lovely river that flows through its center.

The water is tepid at all times of the year, due to the hot springs for which the town was named, and so it never freezes.

I had a short nap in the sun until JhonDuane arrived.



Since the day was so lovely, we decided to stroll the walkway that graces the length of the river through town. JhonDuane took many more photos during this jaunt... I was still sleepy, and content to just follow his lead!

Hot Springs is a charming old town. Originally called Minnekahta (warm waters) by the Lakota, its waters were prized by all. As the rightful dwellers were pushed out of their ancestral lands, Europeans took it over. The town construction started in the late 1800's.

Its buildings are constructed of cut sandstone and brick- outer siding casually allowing less than perpendicular streets define their outer borders.

Above is an example of one of the many little alleyways to surprise and lure the unsuspecting stroller.


Upon returning to the shade where we had left the cars, JhonDuane suggested a drive down Fall River Road to Sheps Canyon. The vistas are nothing short of spectacular. I have only this one shot, as I was falling out out of the car window in total amazement at the sheer beauty of the place.

Remote though it seemed to us in the early Spring, we discovered that it is a major route to boat launches along Angostura Reservoir. In the summer, no doubt, the road would be plenty travelled and dusty!


After such a busy afternoon, our appetites were well-whetted, and we repaired to my newest favorite place to eat- The All-Star Grill. Over a glass of wine and Fat Tire Ale, we munched delicious salmon and wall-eye and reviewed the day.

Once we were happily full, we said goodbye to Hot Springs, and turned our car homeward- the glow of another full moon lighting the way.

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Cascade Springs, Cascade Falls-A Hot Springs Visit on a Cold Winter's Day

In the order of the rhythm of Nature, Winter is a season for solitude, reflection on the past, contemplation on the future, and a time for staying home by the fire.

This month I have done more than my fair share of all of this- especially the quiet reflection- on fire- and how quickly and completely it can destroy the past.

The house in which I raised my two children, where I raised my 4-footed children as well, was destroyed by fire this month. I don't think I will ever get out of my mind the horror of that image- in living color- (thank you (?) YouTube), nor the smell of smoke from my nose- even though I was over 2,000 miles away. Thankfully no people were hurt, although, sadly- 4-footed lives were lost.

Lost as well was the tangible evidence of centuries of saving... ancestral souvenirs, that, yes- Rosses, Boydens, Poblenz', Thompkins, Crosses, Mackenzies, DeCarterets, and all those relatives, as far back as memory can go- proved that they once lived, loved and passed on to the future the very best they could give to their children.

So now my children will go forward, as David Ross and Catherine Ross, and even Old Irad- the "Horse Thief" did, when they started their lives in the New World-with what they could make with their own two hands, the clothes they had on their backs. Maybe a cleansing every 7 generations is a good thing. (I'll let you know when I feel "cleansed".)

Since this event, I have undergone a sort of mourning period. It was time to reflect on all that I had left behind for my children- and was now lost. The weather seemed determined to enforce this process. It stormed considerably, making it impossible for my usual coping strategy of heading to the hills- to heal in the surroundings of the natural world.

However, the sun eventually does return, and with it a warm and Spring-like day. This weekend provided one such day, and like a little kid I grabbed it! I met up with Jhon in Hot Springs- on the Southern-most edge of the Black Hills, and we headed to a most beloved spot- the Cascade Springs.



This is a very special wakan spot- resplendent at all times of the year with the best of Nature's blessings.

This Fall we gathered an enormous amount of grapes- enough to supply many people with deliciously pungent jelly. There were still grapes aplenty after our day of gathering to feed the many wild turkeys that watched us suspiciously from a judicious distance.


These waters bubble to the surface at all times of the year, warmed by volcanic action far beneath the surface. Even in the Winter the water has no ice and is tepid to the touch. It was tempting to think of a dip, but--no! ;^)

However many small fishes who occupy the spring were more than glad to continue their enjoyment of it!

Because of this lovely warmth, the springs and waters which surge forth from it are edged in emerald at all times of year.

As a result, all manner of life are drawn to it for drink, food and healing of the spirit. It was for this purpose that I came to the spring.

The waters which splash down and away from the spring have already been on a long, long journey. They have traveled far underground- through the Black Hills. In doing so, and over the eons of time- they have carved out from the bowels of the earth- places such as Wind Cave, Jewel Cave and many other caves as well.









After their emergence, the waters rush on westward and create the radiant Cascade Falls- a favorite swimming spot during the hot South Dakota sultry summer days.

It was to this spot we traveled next...


These falls happen in a spot much more open and prairie-like, although they are only a few miles West of the Springs. Here the river has cut a deep gouge into the earth, making a micro-climate of abundant vegetation along its edges. This attracts much wildlife. We startled several indignant ducks into the air upon our arrival. After the considerable snow and rain this winter, the run-off has made the river a force to be respected as it rushes past us and slides down the rocky steps.










Truly a lovely spot in which to pause, reflect, refresh and heal the spirit...









good for some photos as well!




















After our busy afternoon we were hungry, so we capped the day with a meal at the All Star Grill in Hot Springs. There they offer delicious home-style meals- like chicken-fried steak, served by friendly people who make you feel like special guests!

Lingering long over the meal looking at photos, finally it was time to head on home. What better way than a big ol' Prairie moon lighting the way home... whispering possibilities of a happier tomorrow!

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Bear Butte

This weekend has been beautiful. Too beautiful to waste indoors, and so- today, November 1, I cast all else to the wind, and jumped into the car and headed off to climb Bear Butte.

Bear Butte- or Mato Paha in Lakota- is one of my most favorite places on Earth, and one of the reasons that I originally came out here for my first visit.

It has an elevation of 4,422 feet, Northeast of the main entity of the Black Hills, but is considered a sacred site of the Black Hills. It is revered by many Indian Nations. It is not my place to speak of its sacredness, or of the many controversies concerning the land use in its immediate area. All I can say is this: the mountain has a power that is palpable, and one has only to be in its presence to know this.



I have been told that the mountain can take care of itself, and doesn't need to be protected or preserved. I agree... the mountain is more powerful than any feeble effort of humans to use or abuse it. However, anyone who comes into the presence of this beautiful spot, if they have any feeling at all in their hearts, will feel its power, and regard it with the awe and respect that it deserves. Those who are not American Indian should know that there are many brightly colored strips of cloth tied to trees and bushes in numerous spots- both along the path, and at various other spots more remote. These are prayer ties- leave 'em ALONE!


I arrived at 2 PM. As I drove up towards the parking lot, I was greeted by a 4-footed committee. It may as well be said- buffalo are bigger than you are- respect that!

The climb itself isn't too hard- only an hour is usually what it takes to get me to the top. However, the first part is a pretty steep angle- do not underestimate the climb at this elevation if you are new to the area! Besides, during the Spring and Summer you will want to take your time- in order to admire the many beautiful flowers and herbs which abundantly grace the path on the way to the top.






Today with the leaves gone, I was able to see and admire the nest of some sort of bird of prey which has made it's nest in a Buffalo Berry bush- a good 3 1/2 feet in diameter!




Earlier this week we had a considerable amount of snow. In some places the depth was up to a foot, and drifts
even more. My path showed clear evidence of this. It doesn't look like much in the photo, but in some spots it was still 6 inches deep!



Finally I made it to the top!

There is no way to describe how beautiful it is once the summit is reached. For me, once there- the experience is always one of a profound sense of peace, renewed strength and happiness. Be respectful if you encounter others at the top. Many come to pray for strength in battle- whether military, personal or physical. For these folks this mountain is NOT a recreational destination.

It's amazing to me to watch the reaction of those who come here. Often it is exhilaration- as it was with the young teen who almost knocked me over as I rounded a turn around a large boulder. His Dad eyed me red-faced and remarked- "I couldn't keep up!" (I sympathized!)

A young Indigenous family boisterously greeted me halfway down. I gave the Mom the rest of my water, and told her how beautiful it was at the top. She gave me back a beautiful smile. I stood aside almost at the bottom, as a young Indian man sprinted past me on his own personal quest... I mentally wished him strength on his journey, and quietly gave thanks for the strength I had received on my own.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Colorado, "Hi!"

I have been very patient all summer. In fact, for a year I have been patient, and anyone who knows me would say so. I haven't gone out of the state since the Christmas holiday.

This has been practical and necessary. When one is not gainfully employed- the name of the game is conservation of funds, and sincere and energetic beating of the bushes for gainful employment.

Finally, this past August, a year and a week to the day- I achieved my goal. I am now gladly working for National American University. I am designing and redesigning ALL their online courses. This is an enormous project, to which I look forward. But that is another story...

Once I had secured my position, and felt comfortable that it would not evaporate in front of my eyes, I started feeling again. These are the feelings I had put on hold for a year. These are the feelings, and accompanying behaviors that- when I am at my most quintessentially myself, I feel and do. My friends, family and those who know me well, then say to each other- "Yep, there she goes again!"

It was natural that, when Labor Day was looming, I started thinking about how far the tether would reach in a three day weekend. I have much exploring to do in this new part of the world. So, I turned to JhonDuane who is the finest consultant I know for adventure inspiration/creation! I told him that I was open to anything, but it should meet two criterion:
1. It should take me out of Rapid City
2. It should have something to do with art.

Some of the best ideas take time, and, in this case, superlative suggestions were slow to surface, even with JhonDuane's fine mind at work. I was determined on "getting out of Dodge" however.

Finally, Jhon came up with a PLAN. We would go to Colorado, and visit Denver Art Museum, and while we were there, we would also stay in Fort Collins.

It was a long drive, with a welcome, several hour detour in Nebraska. First there was a Labor Day Parade/Farmer's Market, where we both purchased some amazingly delicious raw honey. Then, in Chadron, we stopped for the Labor Day Weekend Annual Rock Swap.

It was fun to see all the "usual suspects". It was great to visit, and hear all the latest rock hunting tales and finds. There are many wonderful raw rocks, cabs, gems, fossils, finished jewelry and everything in between. JhonDuane purchased some wonderful raw Fairburn Agates, while I was content to just visit and look at everything! Finally, at mid-afternoon it was time to move on South.

I was excited! This was the first time I had ever been to Colorado! (well, I spent an hour waiting for the next leg of my flight at Christmas, but that doesn't really count- airports are not really a place- they are sort of a twilight zone, only to be endured). We traveled through several hours of Wyoming, occasionally passing oil rigs. I had to be told what these were- they looked nothing like to old rigs in my Social Studies book of my high school days.

This part of Wyoming was nothing like scenery I had pictured from the book The Virginian. Except for the monument to the cattle trails that we stopped and read, it could really still have been South Dakota. The area was large, flat and dusty. I closed my eyes and imagined an endless herd of cattle lumbering towards us, bawling and snorting, cowboys whistling and shouting to keep them moving forward.

The sun went down, and we continued the drive. Finally, the prairie and stars were competing with distant lights of civilization. As soon as it became clear that we were entering urban driving, I turned the wheel over to Jhon. He got us safely checked in to a motel, and then we were out for the evening in Fort Collins!

First, we stopped to eat at one of Jhon's favorite Mexican restaurants,Très Margaritas and what a treat! Truly fine Mexican food, superb Margaritas, all served under enormous, ancient trees in a secluded patio. I relaxed and savored the gentle night breeze, shimmering aspen leaves, and a million brilliant stars.


Unfortunately, I couldn't find a photo of the lovely terrace where we dined, and so I settled for a photo of a dish of their food- YUM!






A full moon begged for a stroll. We, and many of the students populated the beautiful brick walkways and "people streets" adjacent to Colorado State University. We walked for ages- each new turn displayed yet another interesting alley, with interesting store fronts. Finally, after a modest ice cream we mutually decided it was "a night"!

The next morning, after breakfast, we attempted the farmer's market- one of our pre-determined destinations.
Upon learning that it didn't open until 11 AM (yikes! for any self-respecting farmer, that would be after lunch!), we headed South to Denver, to the Denver Art Museum.




As it was Sunday, we waited in an adjacent coffee place for opening, and strolled the beautiful outdoor sculpture at the front of this amazing building.

When we visited, the DAM was remodeling, and preparing for Fall exhibits. Some sections were closed, but there was much for this viewer to savor.

The building itself is exceedingly well designed. There are beautifully framed views from every window. I took advantage of as many as I could!


















Even the lights are works of art!













After all the hard work of art appreciation, we felt that sustenance was in order... JhonDuane knew just the place!

Ahhhh~ Rx in the nick of time!
... The ambiance was pretty 'laxin', too!

Monday, September 21, 2009

A Journey to the Center of All That Is

On Sunday Jhon and I decided to go climb Epahaska (Harney Peak). Since Jhon had other responsibilities earlier in the day, we agreed to meet at Sylvan Lake.

I arrived first. It was beautiful and sunny, so I took a few photos of Sylvan Lake.

There were many people here, grilling food, canoing, fishing, swimming and walking around the short path that girdles the lake. It was so beautiful and warm, I found an empty picnic table and dozed in the sun.

As I gazed at the sky, an Osprey lazily circled the water in search of a fishy feast. The colors are just turning here. Persistent breezes stirred all around into dazzling shimmery foliage.

A few clouds appeared in the sky- here and there people started to break camp. But when Jhon arrived at 3:30, we started up the path.

This is one of my favorite hikes in the Black Hills. At every season there's something new to see, and I was excited to go.

A short way down the path the sky clouded over and it began to rain. I wasn't too worried as it was a light rain, although it was cooling down.

Later, the sun came out and a brilliant rainbow spanned the massive mountain. I thought it a good sign- perhaps the skies would clear to a brilliant sunset.

Instead, the skies opened up in a more serious manner. Jhon and I quietly donned what meager supply of protective wear we'd brought, and continued up the path.

The rain was steady and cool. I wished now that I had brought the wool sweater I had briefly considered, then rejected. After all- it was in the high 70's then!

The Bee Balm (Monarda, Bergamot, aka. Horse mint) liked the damp weather anyway!

Soon the air turned much colder- this was no summer shower, but a serious front moving over the Black Hills. Still, Jhon kept moving forward- and I was glad to follow!

Finally we reached the top! The last few hundred steps were the most punishing of all... until we turned the corner and saw the tower- and knew we'd made it!

The weather at the top was very serious. These pictures don't in any way do justice to the powerful forces we experienced.

We were really soaked, the air was turning seriously cold, the wind was gale-force, and I was sobered at its ferocity! With wind-chill to be considered, we agreed not to linger. We paused for a few moments of thanks, then began the return trip.

The way down was long and arduous. On top of very tired muscles, the dark descended prematurely as clouds thickened. The path was slippery and cruelly demanding to already exhausted limbs. While Jhon was stoic as always, I must say that I was not! My bones HURT!
Though I knew the way pretty well in daylight, in darkness all looked unfamiliar and disorienting.

I'm not ashamed to say I whispered a few prayers along the way. Luckily, we reached the sign at the beginning of the trail before the light finally died for good. Still, what should have been a three minute walk back to the car was far longer. I was grateful for the beautiful white quartz and mica that graced the path, reflecting what there was of night-skylight.

It was wonderful to see the parking lot lights, and there- my old car patiently waiting, with its very efficient heater! An hour later- it was hot baths and Margaritas.

What was left of the evening was given to quiet conversation, and I- in reflection of the wonder of Nature, the powerful forces that live on that mountain, the fragile nature of humans, & sincere thanks for a good end to a very rewarding & enlightening day!

Saturday, September 19, 2009

My First Relative Visit!!!

In a country (Lakota Country, which is a Sovereign Nation in the US, just as Monaco is, in France) in which Relationship is everything, it was a Moment of Great Note, when MY first relation came to visit me this August- a truly an "august occasion"! My Aunt Marianne, had been talking to me since last year about the possibility of coming to the Black Hills for a visit. this past August it happened!

And so– my very FIRST relative came to visit me here, in my new home in the Black Hills of South Dakota...
Welcome to: Marianne– The Movie! ;^)


There is so much more to post... For instance- the wild and wonderful day Marianne and Arlene had with Gerri as Tour Guide to Pine Ridge! From all accounts it was a Wonderful Womans' Tour of Great Success! I, unfortunately was unable to attend, as I had just landed a wonderful new job with National American University as there Graphic Designer in their Curriculum Department. Oh Drat the Timing! lol!

That having been said, Marianne, Arlene and I had a wonderful visit– both at Minerva's for their first night's visit, and our visit to Mount Rushmore. It was wonderful to have my Aunt visit me. Though I love it here, it is a looong way from home, and it was wonderful to have a family member come and visit. I am hoping it is just the start of things to come!

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

In No Particular Order

Well... a lot has been happening... like- I have a new job, and therefore, not as much time to post. Although, I do have enough time to do stuff. Soo- I am catching up as best I can!

I have been cleaning and conditioning Jhon's western tack, which gives me a great deal of satisfaction as it is so amazingly beautiful! I wish I had taken photos of his gorgeous bridle as well- largely his own work- that is, engraving and leather work. I will try and add more photos later.

For now:
Left is a photo of Roan, Jhon's ropin' partner of many years, and worthy recipient of the trophy–
Heeler Award 1986
Nelson Arena: Memorial Day.
This horse was a HORSE! (He was a pretty young fella here.)

Here are some close ups of the breastplate I cleaned, which you can just make out here:
Look at that gorgeous leather-tooling! What a treasure!